Hearts & Minds: A case of having your ‘cake’ and eating it

There was a moment during Wimbledon when cut-through was reached. It was when people were asking if you’d tried one yet? They were referring to the M&S strawberry and creme sandwich. When that happens, when it’s all over the media, social media and is word-of-mouth, you know they are on to something. The Tesco birthday cake sandwich is following suit.

There is an added twist as to whether the sandwiches may avoid the tax that applies to confectionery. What exactly are they? The word ‘sando’ appears and sure enough ‘sandogate’. Words galore, with expert opinions, are devoted to this very question. More will follow.

Both retailers have conducted masterclasses in how to hijack the narrative, how to insert themselves into the national consciousness by tapping into the zeitgeist. Starting with the timing. It’s summer, the sun is shining and the country is in the mood for relaxation and frivolity.

The backdrop, though, is one of seriousness, as the cost-of-living and fiscal black hole dominate. Here are clever wheezes that avoid the expense of having to buy actual strawberries and cream and a whole cake. What is more, they might escape VAT or at the very least, be the subject of high-level debate – don’t suppose M&S and Tesco have not thought about this. M&S did not even call theirs a sandwich, preferring ‘Red Diamond Strawberry & Creme on soft sweetened bread’. Note the sweetened, because under the rules, sweetened products eaten with fingers are taxed. But this is a sandwich, no?

Despite their gimmicky nature, their launches are low-key affairs. If they had made a hullabaloo that could easily have backfired. The fanfare would suggest they were treating it as a bit of a laugh and the media would have responded in kind and the new products most likely would have perished. This way, they were inviting the audience to try them, to take them seriously.

The choice of flavourings and names was deliberate. Strawberries and cream is a quintessential product – especially at this time of year. Likewise, birthday cake is universally liked. But while they are staples, they also qualify as treats, which matches the sense of playfulness. Both chains emerge with a sense of humour and lightness, qualities that are hard to get right. Doubtless, rivals are preparing their responses. But beware: copying only flatters and the public can soon tire and you will get the backlash, not them.

Chris Blackhurst is one of the UK’s foremost business journalists. He was previously Editor of The Independent and City Editor of the Evening Standard.